Day 9: Hualien to Luodong - The Suhua Highway

On Spokes: a solo journey cycling Taiwan

Today I face the death-defying Suhua Highway. Many people opt to take the train from this point in order to avoid the narrow winding highway that hugs the coast. Falling rocks, long, dark tunnels with no shoulder, exposure to cliffs, and 5,500 feet (1675 metres) of elevation gain are all legitimate reasons to hop on the choo-choo. Why am I putting myself through this? Simply, I’m not done cycling yet. I know it’s going to be tough, but I also know the views will be stunning.

For breakfast I ate a jelly-filled bao bun I had purchased yesterday, I packed up my bike once again, and pedaled out of Hualien, towards Taroko once more, and made my right turn onto the Suhua Highway. Another hot and sunny day, and the longest ascents I will make the entire trip. It was brutal with a capital ‘B.’

The coast was stunning though, the water a beautiful crystal blue. I cycled past ornate temples hugging the mountainsides, roaring waterfalls, and gentle waves beating onto the shore. I also cycled through loud tunnels, ensuring my bike lights were on so I would be visible. One tunnel was so long I began to feel claustrophobic, and I had to sing to myself to keep from having a panic attack. Trucks zoomed past me even as I climbed slowly up the treacherous hills of the highway. Every now and then a motorist would stick a thumbs-up out their window or give me a shout to cheer me on. It’s a small gesture but it does help keep me confident. There were definitely moments in which I looked up to see no end of a giant hill in sight and whimpered to myself. I took advantage of viewpoints and rest stops, seeking shade under trees and awnings where possible. I gulped down chocolate milk at 7-Elevens and slathered on sunblock every couple hours.

When I arrived in Nan’ao, a small but bustling coastal township, I treated myself to a cup of mango chili ice cream from a local chili shop. They serve spicy noodles and chili-flavored ice cream. It was just the pick-me-up I needed that far into the day, before I tackled some of the most challenging hills of the day. It was a very long day, made longer by the frequent rests I needed to take on the uphills. Not only were the hills long and steep, it was so humid and I was working up quite the sweat. I drank more water today than any other day, and looking at the coastal waters I was desperate for a swim. I pulled off in Dong’ao to take a dip in the cold springs but to my dismay the water was too low and the springs were blocked off. I cycled down to the beach there and took a short dip in the ocean before getting back on my bike for the most challenging section of the day. Every time I came to a cliff that winds around the mountain, I hoped in my soul it would be the point of descent. I was fooled many times, but finally, just before Su’ao, I came to the end of the grueling feat, and down I went! I had to be extra cautious going down, though, due to the narrow roads. Once I finally got down the mountain, my route took me through scenic and (thank the gods!) shaded bike paths along the river. It was a lovely end to a long, hard, and HOT day. I cycled my way into Luodong, stopping briefly for an iced mocha that I slurped down in a matter of seconds. I was originally going to camp, but I was in the middle of the city and would have had to continue cycling north to find a quiet camp spot. I was also sweaty and tired, so I decided to search for hostels in the area. I ran across a very nice, upscale hotel that was offering private rooms for the same price as the hostel, with free breakfast. I’ve stayed in a private hotel twice on this trip, wild camped once, and the rest of the time I’ve stayed in hostels. Honestly, the change-up has been nice, so I cycled over to the hotel and booked a room. It was a very nice hotel and I remain giddy at being able to get such a luxurious room for less than $20 a night!

I took a miraculous shower before heading out to the night market. It was probably the best market I’ve seen yet. There were so many shops and stalls open, and great food everywhere you looked. I took my time strolling the market, browsing the locally handcrafted jewelry and clothing. Finally, I picked up some vegetable dumplings, sweet potato balls, and took them back to my hotel room to munch on as I settled in for the night.

Today was terrifying and amazing, challenging and rewarding, with its ups and downs, twists and turns. Somehow the grueling challenges make me feel more alive, and I am so grateful that I have the ability to be so active and to see beautiful places. I am getting near the end of my trip, and my heart is full of gratitude and wonder, knowing this trip is going to stay with me forever.