On Spokes: a solo cycling journey through Taiwan

It’s been a couple weeks and already I am struggling with a combination of emotional let down, FOMO, and fear. See, over 6 months ago I injured my knee racing a 50-mile trail ultramarathon in Alaska. I’ve been in rehab ever since, but I signed up for a 100km race under the assumption I would be better. Training went well, and I raced the Black Canyon Ultras. Unfortunately, my knee didn’t like it and though I finished the race, it was painful and a beating for my knee. I know I have to focus on recovery, and that means ultramarathons have to be off the table for a little while. Anyone who knows me knows that running is my life. I mean that it holds me together, it keeps me mentally and emotionally stable, and it is the source of most of my closest friendships. It’s pretty devastating having to put it aside even for a little while, and add to that the pain of missing my training runs with friends and watching them via Instagram continue to run. Here’s something else my friends know about me: when I feel down I go away. I find somewhere else to be and I be there.

I’m leaving for a 6-month cycle trip in Europe at the start of the summer, but it can’t come fast enough so I look for flight deals. Here’s a great deal to Taiwan AND I have enough points to just about cover the entirety of the price. So I Google ‘things to do in Taiwan.’ There is a cycling route that goes all the way around the island. You don’t have to tell me a second time! I immediately book my flight - for 4 weeks from the day!

I’ve been on the lookout for another touring bike, as my 1960 Schwinn Varsity made me work really hard when I took her to Alaska. I love her dearly but she needs to remain my urban bike. While I still prefer a steel frame for long tours, I figured a lighter frame would work for this trip, as long as it has more gears than the Varsity - and any bike meant for touring will. Disc brakes would be great too. I happened upon a Specialized Diverge at one of my local nonprofit bike shops. I only buy secondhand, and this is an upscale bike, so I was very pleased to find it there! It’s a real blast to ride.

My friends have been listening to me babble on about this trip since I booked my flight, and most of them showed up to a party to send me off. Several of them have been motivating me to document my trip. I am doing my best to take photos and videos, though it isn’t a strong skill of mine - partly because I forget to take them and partly because my brain is technology-deficient. This is my attempt to document my trip, by writing this blog series and posting as I go.

My wonderful friends sending me off with lots of love!

I rarely plan a trip ahead of time (pre-planning - another skill I seriously lack), but given this is my first long-term cycle trip outside of the country, and I only have 3 weeks, I want to make the most of it. I am approaching it like this: I am pre-planning my route but leaving my accommodations and extracurriculars TBD. I think it’s important for me to plan my route, especially since I am doing this completely solo. I’m already 3 days in to my tour as I write this and I can say that Komoot and the information provided by Bike Express Taiwan have been exponentially valuable!

One of the things I became most excited about when I was planning my trip, besides spending so much time on my bicycle, is trying authentic Taiwanese food, especially at the night markets! If you follow me on Instagram, you’ll see that while I was in Denmark I ran around the country trying varieties of smørrebrød and pastries. Did pretty much the same thing in France, the Netherlands, and Indonesia - just saying the words goreng and gado gado make my mouth water! It’s even more about the snacks when you’re cycling, for several reasons: it breaks up your trip as it gets tiring spending anywhere between 5-8 hours in the saddle (not to mention sore in your sit bones), it’s crucial to optimize energy and keep you going physically, it gives you something to look forward to, and it’s just so much fun!

Speaking of fun; that’s really what this trip is all about. I travel to keep myself motivated in life, to discover more about the world and in turn about myself, and to experience joy through my interactions with other people from other cultures. Without going into the nitty gritty, I’ve had a tough life and there’s been a lot of pain. As I’ve put in the work to heal and grow and find happiness, find myself, I’ve found a lot of joy and hope in travel. What really inspires me is the people I meet and the way I can challenge myself. Stepping out of my comfort zone is the most effective way for me to embrace gratitude for my life, no matter what adversities I’ve had to overcome.

In this series you can follow me day-by-day for my anecdotes about snacks, smiles, and cycling around Taiwan! Until tomorrow….