Day 7: Taimali to Ruisi

On Spokes: a solo journey cycling Taiwan

Another day of ascents and descents. I’ve got about 70 miles (113 km) to get to Ruisi. And though it’s a little less elevation gain than yesterday 2,725 feet (831 metres), it feels just as tough today as it did yesterday. The chafing and sore bum are absolutely contributing to my fatigue. I’m actually really pleased with how the Diverge is holding the weight and providing enough options for shifting gears to make the ride smoother. Sure, my only comparison is the ‘60 Schwinn Varsity with its friction shifters and it’s meager 10-speed. But I’m really enjoying the agility of the Diverge, so I may continue to tour on it, even though it’s not a steel frame. If I stick with her I’m definitely going to have to invest in a Brooks saddle.

Today started off lovely as I woke up before sunrise and watched the colors in the sky above the ocean change from the comfort of my tent. I never even put the fly on last night, it was cool enough to be comfortable but not so cool I needed to get mummified in my sleeping bag. Once the sun ascended above the clouds I packed up all my camping gear and set off for the open road. I did have to clean off the sand from my chain, and as I was doing that the darn thing slipped of the front cog. It’s annoying when that happens - fortunately I did not have to remove the back wheel, just a little adjustment to the rear derailleur and I was able to get the chain back in place. I used my last hand wipe to get most of the grease off my hands, which made me realize how necessary it is to pack wipes, especially when you’re traveling by bike.

Today I had the pleasure of riding through many green rice paddies. Just like yesterday, though, it is HOT! Lots of sweating, lots of chafing = lots of sunblock and lots of chamois butter.

All day I have been looking forward to veering off the main route to ride through Mr. Brown Avenue. It’s a maze of cycling paths that take you through stunning fields of green rice paddies, popular with locals. It was an appreciated quiet break from traffic. There were lots of families on rented bicycle carts riding through the paddies. I just knew there would be an ice cream shop somewhere nearby, and there was. There was a nice offering of natural fruit popsicles - I treated myself to a yummy pineapple popsicle. It really hit the spot! A delightful break, let’s slap on some sunblock and chamois butter and get back to it.

After leaving the rice paddies I cycled through the township of Chishang, continuing my break from big hills. At mile 57, I had one last ascent. It is a doozy - huffing and puffing just telling myself I was almost there and then I could descend once again. Descents are such a wonderful thing.

When I finally arrived in Ruisi I was beyond exhausted, dehydrated, and hot! Ruisi is home to many hot springs hotels, and I made a spontaneous decision to reward myself with a nice b&b. Now, back home a resort of such luxury would cost a few hundred green ones. In Taiwan, I barely broke 100 for this place. So why not! It was nice indeed! I had a modernized suite with my own private hot springs bath on the patio. I filled it up and spent the rest of the night in luxury. It was so worth it. I have absolutely no regrets. We all deserve a little treat sometimes.