Autumn Colors and Abandoned Railways; Cycling the Ciro Trail in Bosnia & Herzegovina

Last week I posted about my cycle tour through Bosnia & Herzegovina from the border at Šamac to the charming medieval town of Mostar. You can read that post here.

This week, I’m sharing my experience cycling along the Ciro Trail from Mostar to Dubrovnik, Croatia.

An historic ride along an abandoned railway

The Ciro bike path runs along an old railway not currently in use, though the tracks are still there and a prominent feature of the tour. The railway was established at the beginning of the 20th century and permanently closed sometime in the 1970s, which led to the abandonment of the connecting cities during the Bosnian war in the ‘90s. In several areas along the trail you’ll see signs warning of landmines. 

I read a blog post from another cyclist who described their trip down the trail many years ago, and they described it as an ‘open-air museum,’ which I thought was the perfect observation. In several areas you’ll cycle past former railway stations and guardhouses, where the track foreman or other rail workers lived. They are all pretty much dilapidated, though some still had remnants of beds and long forgotten furniture.

It took me two days to cycle the entire route, a 157km (98 mile) biking trail that runs mostly on rocky gravel paths.

To begin the trail, I made my way out of the city of Mostar, cycling past the train station and onto a main stretch of roadway. Almost immediately I could see the signs for the Ciro Trail. It’s very easy to follow without a map, because the entire route is dotted with signs and several significant sites include interpretive panels that tell the story of the old railways.

It was overcast that day, so I dressed in my rain gear and covered my bags. My handlebar bag, in particular, is not waterproof, unfortunately. I’m traveling with the Swift Industries Catalyst front handlebar bag, though am currently on the lookout for something waterproof and with a klickfix. 

I caught a few tiny rain drizzles here and there during my first hour on route, however most of the day was clear. Within minutes I came upon a bridge overlooking the Neretva River. The mist gave the mountains a mystical charm.

Along most of the route I took in breathtaking views of the valleys below and the mountain ranges. 

I didn’t keep count of the number of bridges I crossed, but it had to be at least three, including one designed by Gustave Eiffel. Yep, you read that right. Gustave was also the architect who designed the Eiffel Tower in Paris.

I also cycled through several dark caves. There were at least a dozen. It was really cool at first, but it got old after about the fifth cave. I don’t remember exactly how many I passed through, but it was enough! I got a glimpse of a few bats in some of them. 

I did have to push my bike at times on parts of the path that were extremely rocky. I’m planning on purchasing some wider tires so I can take Dusty on more rugged terrain.

Though my route map indicated over 4,000 feet of elevation gain, I didn’t notice any steep ascents. The most tedious part was having to dismount the bike on very loose or large rocks and through the tunnels. 

Camping along the Ciro Trail

I didn’t see anyone else during my time on the trail. Surrounded by quiet landscapes and traces of the past, it felt like I was cycling back in time. It was such a scenic and serene ride, and the views were absolutely gorgeous, especially as the trees began to don their autumn reds and golden yellows.

As the sun began to set on the first day, I started scouting for places to camp. I had read on the weather forecast there would be some rain. I wasn’t having much luck finding a decent clearing for camp. (I would see one just a few kilometres from where I ended up camping the following day.)

I came upon a small patch of grass, so I stopped there and set Dusty on her side. I realized quickly, though, that there was a highway running along this section of the path and I wasn’t keen on the idea of camping in plain sight.

I lifted Dusty upright and continued down the path for a good 2 kilometres. The sky was growing darker and a strong wind began to blow. I didn’t want to get caught setting up camp in the rain, so I finally decided to just pitch my tent on a wide section of the dirt path. 

I worked as fast as I could as the wind was becoming more forceful. I sheltered Dusty with my rain cover next to my tent, and shoved all my bags inside my tent. It was dark, and the mountains took on an almost mystical aura. The rest of the night, however, was not so magical.

It rained heavily off and on all night. The real problem was the wind. It got up to speeds of 47 miles per hour. I thought my tent was going to blow away with me in it. Wish I could say it didn’t bother me, but if I’m telling the truth I was pretty frightened. I was worried about debris blowing into my tent, or my tent ripping to shreds. I was also a little worried about lightning, though I didn’t see any. I whimpered under my sleeping bag until about 2am, at which time the winds mercifully decided to calm down.

The next morning, I emerged from my tent to watch the sunrise. I couldn’t believe that just hours ago these mountains were terrorized by a raging storm. Now, they were bathed in a golden morning light, and the air was crisp and serene.

I decided to break down camp before having breakfast so that I could take advantage of the sun to warm my tent and rain covers. Once everything was laid out across the dirt path in the spots that were receiving the most sunlight, I boiled some water for oatmeal and coffee. 

After breakfast, I walked over to Dusty, lying near the brush. “Oh no!” I gasped. “Where’s my GoPro?”

The little camera I have secured with a voile strap on the handlebars was not so secure. I looked all around the brush and the dirt path, inside and under my gear. 

Then a memory. 

I had laid my bike down at that patch of grass about 2km down the trail. I wasn’t certain it had fallen off there, but I remember specifically laying my bike down the opposite side than I normally do when I set her down. It was the same side the GoPro was on.

I jogged down the dirt path, hoping the patch of grass was, in fact, as close as I remembered it being. Yes! Here it is! I started combing through the grass, and within seconds; “No freakin’ way!” There it was. That little black box, dusted with dew and raindrops. 

I picked up the little sucker and jogged back to my campsite. I waited a little while longer to allow my gear to dry before packing it back on my bike.

For the rest of the day I had a pretty easy ride. Only a few kilometres from where I set up camp the dirt path met up with a paved road, which wound its way through little villages.

The road then winds its way around the mountains, and descends down to the Popova field In Ravno. There you can tour Špilja Vjetrenica, the largest cave in Bosnia & Herzegovina. Of course, I took the opportunity to check it out. A girl, whose friends deemed her the 'cave woman,' led me through the slick tunnels of the most biodiverse cave in the world. It runs 7,324 metres (over 24,000 feet) in length all the way to the border of Croatia. The cave tour doesn't go all the way through, of course. Still, it was fascinating to see, a natural wonder.

Inside Vjetrenica Cave

A breathtaking descent into Dubrovnik

At the Croatian border I reentered Schengen. Then a long, glorious descent into Dubrovnik. As I glided down the curvy road, I saw the most jaw-dropping view of the Adriatic coast pushing itself against the walled town of Dubrovnik. I was beside myself as I took it all in.

I had heard the name of the city, Dubrovnik, but I didn’t realize it was such a big tourist destination. It’s easy to see why so many people visit this ancient town, though I know the filming of Game of Thrones probably boosted its tourism. 

Even in October, even in the drizzle, the stone streets inside the medieval town walls were alive. I cycled into the town center and pulled my bike up to a hostel. I had to remove the bags so that I could carry the bike upstairs. It was then that I realized my rear rack had a clean break right at the corner.

My panniers had been bouncing up and down over hours on the rocky gravel path. It was too much trauma on the rear rack, which caused it to crack. It’s my own fault. I didn’t have the spacers installed.

Important lesson here: always follow installation instructions. This seems obvious but you’d be surprised at how many people (moi) forgo certain pieces when they’re putting together equipment or gear. In my case, I decided to forgo the spacers on the new set of panniers I picked up in Germany. Spacers are the little rubber pieces that snap into the clips. Their function is to keep the panniers firmly in place on the rear rack. Because I couldn’t get the spacers to snap into place, I foolishly decided they weren’t that important. I know - slap me now, I deserve it. Every day I told myself I’d take a look at the spacers next time I stopped, only to procrastinate further.

I ended up finding a sturdier rear rack at Adventure Bike Shop, where the owner installed it for me and wrapped electrical tape in place of the spacers. I clicked the spacers in, but over the next few days every time I removed my bags from the rack the spacers would fall out. I ended up using superglue to keep them in place. Worked like a charm - the spacers are still firmly in place three months later.

I stayed three days in Dubrovnik, enjoying some relaxation and exploration. I didn’t walk the walls of the town because it was 40 euros, which I thought was very high. There were a maze of hidden streets and high stairways taking you through the town, and in my opinion it’s a much more magical experience than paying 40 euros to walk the walls with crowds of tourists. My money was better spent visiting Lokrum Island, which cost me 10 euros less. It’s still a lot, but once I got to the island I knew it was worth it. The island is a lush nature preserve with hiking paths that guide you through centuries of history. (You can read more about my hike on Lokrum Island here.)

Outside the town walls Dubrovnik is just as stunning, and less crowded. I took in radiant sunsets at the coast, and my skin soaked up the golden sun as I walked down Gruž Harbour. I found a cute plant-based restaurant called Urban & Veggie. It was so good I went there twice. The first time I ordered lunch; vegan beet sliders and a cold pressed juice with ginger and matcha. The second time I went for breakfast and had a delicious and protein powered coffee and banana smoothie, followed by a vegan gung bao because I couldn’t resist. It was a little pricey but I don’t run into plant-based cafes too often out here so I took advantage while I could.

My next destination is Montenegro, but first I needed to shed some weight. I packed a bunch of clothes and a few other items I hadn’t used in over a month in a shopping bag, and donated them. I feel better about the lost weight, especially since I know there is going to be a lot more climbing to come.

See you out there. And proceed with caution… I’m on a pink bike 🌸

Women Belong Outside

I am raising money for the Cairn Project, a nonprofit that promotes equity in the outdoors and helps more women get outside. Visit my ambassador page at the link below to learn more:

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