Day 6: Kenting to Taimali

On Spokes: a solo journey cycling Taiwan

It’s time to leave the beach. I say my goodbyes to all my new friends, but before I hop in the saddle the hostel owner reviews the map with me, sharing tips on stops I might make on my way up the east coast. I have to backtrack up to Checheng, so that I can take the mountainous roads through Mudan to the east side of the island. It’s certainly more rugged and wild out here, with lots of ascents and descents. This might just be the toughest day of the trip, with total elevation gain around 3,500 feet (1067 metres), and loss around 3,300 (1006).

Great efforts lead to great rewards. I had to work hard for it, but I was gifted with gorgeous scenery of mountains and beaches and many rice paddy fields. I’ve passed several cyclists today, but what really brought joy to my heart was coming across a foot race. I’m not sure the distance, but I saw runners at multiple parts of my route. Their aid stations were full of Asian goodies and looked amazing! I cheered on my fellow runners, waving and thumbs-upping, shouting fei chang hao! The finish line looked to be at a large temple overseen by a giant statue of a red man or god (see photo). I’ve been doing a little research to try and find out what race it was and what the name of the temple is, but no luck yet. I’ll definitely update once I track down the information!

Today felt long and hard. My little tush bones are sore, I’m applying chamois cream in the middle of the open at this point, and it is hot as dragon’s breath. I’ve taken more breaks today than usual. Those ascents are killer! The good news is I’m losing almost as much elevation as I’m gaining which means fast downhills! Descents are everything! Still, I’ve stopped at multiple 7-Elevens for sandwiches and chocolate milks. My favorite stop was a little place up on the hill off County Highway 199. It had a clean, modern, white & wood aesthetic. Several motorbikes were parked out front and people were gathered on the wooden patios drinking coffees and eating ice cream. I stopped in to order an iced mocha, which I downed in like 15 seconds.

I will say this; I think March has been the perfect month to do this trip. The first couple days started off overcast and chilly, the latter of which is helped by the cycling. But after the fourth day the sun began to peak out and the heat, and humidity, started to rise. It is getting pretty toasty, especially with all the uphills. It’s made me think about just how tough this would be if it were April, or later. Summer time, forget it! If you don’t like being cold, and don’t mind a little sun and warmth without sweating your entire body dry, I say March is the sweet spot.

A few more climbs and some exhilarating downhills (fast is fun!) and it’ll be time to find a spot to camp for the night. Taimali is a small area with gray-sand beaches. I found a somewhat hidden concrete ramp leading down to a quiet area of the beach. I heaved my bike far enough out where I could have some privacy and set up my tent. I was pretty thirsty so I walked a little ways backward from my site and found a little mom & pop shop where I bought a cold water and some tofu, and charged my phone.

There was a delightful breeze on the beach back at my campsite, and listening to the rushing waves put me right to sleep. Can’t wait to see the sunrise.