Day 5: Kaohsiung to Kenting

On Spokes: a solo cycling journey through Taiwan

Today I get back in the saddle. The temperatures have risen, along with the humidity, so I’m wearing shorts for today’s ride. The route I am taking is meant to end in Checheng today, but I have decided to go all the way to Kenting, turning a 67-mile day into a 75-mile day (roughly 120 km). I think it’ll be worth it - I really desire some beach time and another day off.

Before getting on the route from Kaohsiung I wanted to see the Fongshan Temple. I took a half hour to admire the intricate features and the rows of paper lanterns lining the ceiling. I always feel so solemn inside the temples, watching locals pay their respects to the gods. After visiting the temple I made a pit stop at Xi Long Ju. It’s a popular breakfast place, and I realized just how popular when I got there to a long line stretching to the street. I chose a serving of dan bing, fried bread, and a milk-soaked slice of toast. I wrapped up my goods and put them in my bag to save for later, as I had already had oatmeal and coffee at the hostel. There were several other bikepackers at breakfast, and I briefly chatted with a man from Singapore who was cycling the island with his girlfriend before they go back to France, where they will be living after their trip.

The route was primarily on state roads, though there were portions of the route that branched into bike paths that ran alongside the road. On my way I spotted a couple riding two brightly colored Bromptons. We talked briefly about our Bromptons (I have a secondhand line at home). I actually saw several bikepackers on the route today, so that was pretty cool.

I was treated to stunning coastal views and pristine blue waters along the route. It came with a price, though. The headwinds were serious today. If you’ve ever cycled against the wind, you understand the struggle involving rpms and balance. I got off course a bit when I missed my turn to go inland, but I rerouted back to Linbian so no biggie. It gets a lot more rugged and mountainous once passing Fangshan, though the elevation gain is still under 1,300 feet (396 metres). I continue to fuel on sandwiches from the many 7-Eleven stores I pass. Seriously, they’re everywhere. It could have something to do with all the energy exertion and the long days, but sandwiches have never been so fulfilling for me. I remember a couple years ago I trekked the Arctic Circle Trail in Greenland. The red half moon shape that’s painted on cairns to mark the trail throughout the 125-mile ( 201-km) route is kind of like the emblem for that trail. That seems to be what the big orange/red/green 7-Eleven logo serves as for cyclists in Taiwan. You can count on 7-Eleven to be there for you, to provide you sustenance when you’re hot and tired and hungry and don’t know if you can go another 8km. They have everything you could need or want. Just hang in there, there will be another 7-Eleven on the route soon.

There was quite a bit of variety available for my eyes today. In addition to the coastal scenery, I spotted some interesting architecture and some mountains in the distance. I ended up stopping at a sweet little outpost on the beach in Jialu Village. I took my sandwich and a mini carton of chocolate milk to a wooden table in the sand and enjoyed my break (chocolate milk also has an enhanced taste after a long day of cycling in the sun - not to mention it’s not loaded with as many sugars and additives as American choco milk). When I hopped back on my bike, a dad walking his little boy across the lot cheered for me.

Probably the most memorable moment of my ride was when a woman cyclist came up behind me. I have seen several bikepackers along the roads today but she was the first solo woman I had seen. Apparently I was the first solo woman she had seen since beginning her trip as well. She mentioned she had acquired a slight sunburn during her ride yesterday, a statement which prompted me to glance down at my own legs, to observe that I, too, was burnt. Geeze, when you’re cycling and the wind is blowing on you as if it’s trying to throw you off your bike in jest, you don’t realize how much sun you’re getting. Anywho, it was so fun chatting with a fellow female cyclist. I was a little sad when we had to part ways. She was stopping in Checheng but I am going all the way down to Kenting.

The surf hostel was on my left just as soon as I made it to Nanwan beach. I immediately felt at home. The hostel isn’t much to look at, bare minimum inside and a hodgepodge of wooden furniture making up the outdoor communal spaces in front. But there was something so familiar about it, taking me back to my time in Indonesia where the hostels were more outside than in, you went barefoot everywhere, and you became family with both the staff and travelers (oftentimes the staff are travelers themselves). That was definitely the vibe here. I didn’t have much energy to mingle though after the bike ride so I checked in, went out to grab a bite to eat (and some aloe vera), and came back and crashed very early, despite some attempted persuasion to have drinks at the surf shop bar. Maybe tomorrow.

Speaking of the morrow, it is going to be a relaxing, sunny beach day. My hiney is very much looking forward to it!