Day 4: Chiayi to Kaohsiung

On Spokes: a solo cycling journey through Taiwan

Planet 23 is a really cool hostel. The vibe was hip but homey. For morning breakfast they had free toast, jam, and peanut butter. I made myself a spread (must mention again that both peanut butter and jam here are so much tastier than back home, seriously). I fixed myself a coffee and then started to pack up by bike. I met two men from Hong Kong who were cycling the island on folding bikes, though they were doing a mix of cycling and riding the train. We exchanged stories about the places we’ve traveled, and discussed politics, culture, and social topics.

I am very excited about getting to Kaohsiung. There is a lot to do and see there and while I never thought I’d say this, I can’t wait to get off my bike! I am spending two nights in Kaohsiung so that I can have a rest day. Well, a rest from cycling. I do plan to do quite a bit of walking around the city but I think that will be a good change of pace for my legs and my body.

The ride to Kaohsiung was mostly on state roads. While a bit long at 67 miles (108 km), there was less than 1,000 ft (305 metres) elevation gain and the roads are wide, with an entire right lane designated for bicycles beside the motorbike designated lanes. Parts of the route took me along designated bike paths off the main road that were lined with pink cherry blossom trees. Most of the ride was uneventful, though I did pick up this little hitchhiker from the side of the road. He is now my little navigator.

Though the ride was easy enough, I was starting to get a little anxious because my disc was rubbing against my brake pad, making an awful squeaking noise the entire ride and making it tough to use my front brake. I had attempted to adjust the caliper and the disc myself but it is the only part on the bike that requires a screwdriver! I have every size Allen wrench you could need, but no screwdriver. I knew there was a Giant bicycle shop in Kaohsiung so I just hoped the brake pad wouldn’t wear completely down before I got there, or if it did that Giant would be able to replace it that day. I put an AirPod in with some music to drown out the squeaking. When I got to Giant, there was a badass woman mechanic who did speak English, which made it easier for me to communicate what was going on. She readjusted my disc for me and cleaned all the components on the front and back to make sure the rest of my ride was smooth. AND she didn’t charge me! This shop was a real life saver.

Kaohsiung is a big city with many parks, shops, restaurants, and attractions. A very nice local man helped me find the entrance to the Paper Plane hostel, where I am staying for two nights. I was very tired and kind of wanted to go to sleep, but I had already made plans with a local woman I met through couchsurfing who wanted to have dinner together. I took a shower and had some time to kill, so I decided to finally go to a night market. There are night markets all over Taiwan, but I have yet to visit one. And it’s definitely one of the things I really wanted to experience. I walked 30 minutes to the Liuhe Night Market and it did not disappoint! My couchsurfing friend had recommended I try the sweet potato balls, so that is the first thing I tasted. Wow! SO yum! The market was mostly food stands, but there were some clothing, jewelry, and other artisan stands. There were also a few carnival games. I went around trying foods, including some free samples of nougats - definitely plan to get some of those to take home to my friends. I haven’t had any alcohol since I arrived in Taiwan so I figured what the heck, I’ll try a Taiwan beer. It was good! Very similar to Bintang beer you find in Indonesia. I had to try stinky tofu - I actually like the taste but you have to get past the smell, stinky is in the title for a reason. The last thing I tried, and perhaps my favorite item, was a peanut spring roll with ice cream. It was absolutely delicious! They take shavings from a giant peanut block and put in on a flour crepe, then then they put three small scoops of ice cream onto the crepe, more peanut shavings, and some cilantro before rolling it up just like a spring roll. I am not a huge fan of cilantro, and I I know some people detest it, but it really enhanced the dessert. I am definitely going to get this at another night market, WITH the cilantro!

My favorite part of the day was meeting Jian for dinner at a local noodle shop. She felt bad when I told her I am a vegetarian. The shop is best known for beef noodles, a favorite in Taiwan. I assured her I would be fine with plain noodles and bell peppers, but she ordered me radish soup and an egg on the side just to be sure I wouldn’t go hungry. The egg was a black egg, or iron egg, served with a block of tofu - it looks a little intimidating because your mind immediately finds the word ‘rotten,’ but it’s actually good. It’s black because the egg is stewed in soy sauce and crystal sugar. It goes through a process of recooking and drying, so it comes out very flavorful!

I had a lovely time getting to know Jian - we talked about sports, hobbies, travel, and family. She also recommended some spots for me to explore around town. We are meeting up again tomorrow evening so I can try tofu pudding! For now, I am going to get a good night’s sleep with a belly full of many Taiwanese delights!