Day 4.1: Kaohsiung

On Spokes: a solo cycling journey through Taiwan

I slept later than I wanted to but I figure I if that’s what my body needs I shouldn’t be mad about it. I had a sandwich I made with the ingredients from Planet 23 and some coffee for breakfast before setting out to see the city.

I took a long walk over to Lotus Pond. I had passed it on my way in yesterday and it looked like a fun place. It was a quiet morning, and the attractions at Lotus Pond seemed hushed as well. Wooden bridges take you over the pond to gaze at colorful pagodas adorned by exotic and mythical animals and gods. I visited the dragon and tiger pagodas, though they were closed so I couldn’t go inside. As I walked towards the Spring and Autumn pavilions, I passed the Confuscious temple. The pavilions are guarded by a statue of Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy, who is riding her brightly colored dragon.

Lotus Pond is quite sprawling, and though I visited in the morning, I bet it’s beautiful at night when it’s lit up. If you have kiddos, I’d bet they’d get a thrill out of entering the mouths of these colorful creatures and climbing to the top of the pagodas. I’m sure the views from atop are spectacular as well, especially at night!

Jian had recommended I check out Cijin Island, so I hopped on the train to get to the light rail station at the arts center, and then took the light rail to Hamasen where I would catch a ferry to the island. The island was quaint and cute. I took a long walk down the path that goes along the coast. Many people rent these rickshaw bike cart things, or a bicycle, but I did not want to get on a bike! My sit bones have been in dire need of rest. So I walked along the shore and the boardwalk, and along the way snapped some photos of the art. There’s a windmill farm, a temple (of course), and what appears to be abandoned Japanese military grounds. When I returned back to the ferry side I stopped at the little beach bar and had a beer and watched the kids play their volleyball tournament. I also stopped at a little bakery and picked up this rice flour dessert that’s shaped like a turtle. I tried my snack while ferrying back to the main land and immediately regretted not purchasing more! Probably one of the best desserts I’ve ever tasted! Seems to be a theme here.

By the time I got back to Kaohsiung the Riufeng night market was opening up, so I figured I’d stop in there. I think I was a little early because most of the stalls were still closed. The set up was very different than the night market at Liuhe. Rather than an open street market, this was set up like a maze with designated stalls packed tightly next to one another. There were numerous carnival games set up in the back. I didn’t linger long, primarily because the stalls that were open were serving meat and I am a vegetarian! I definitely recommend Liuhe over Riufeng if you ever go to Kaohsiung. I prefer Liuhe’s open-air market energy. It felt more laid back, easier to take my time, and more conducive to mingling with other visitors as well as the folks running their stands. It was also easier to understand what each stand was serving, at least for me. Just my preference, as a foreigner. Both of these are the most popular night markets in Kaohsiung, according to my friend, who I would be meeting in a couple hours.

To kill time, I strolled around near my hostel and happened across this tiny dive bar called Beer Bee. I figured what the hell, I’ll go in and grab a craft brew. The bartender recommended a Japanese amber beer called Beniaka, brewed by Coedo. It was subtle but not too light. Very good. The vibe at this little bar was cute, and there were a lot of people there.

All day I’ve been looking forward to meeting Jian for tofu pudding. It was a cute, airy place. Like many of the restaurants and dessert shops in Taiwan it had seating al fresco style. When Jian arrived she placed a carnival bag in front of me, declaring that she stopped at the market and picked up some sweet potato balls for me. She recommended red bean tofu pudding, and it was very good! Smooth, subtle flavor and the red beans added a little something extra to the blander tofu. We had a lovely chat about everything from comparing politics in different countries, to food, to pets. I showed her a photo I took of this sweet little kitten I passed in a pet shop on my way to meet her. It was trying to catch my finger through the window as I ran it along the windowpane. I wanted to hold it so badly, but I refrained from going in!

After dessert Jian drove me back to my hostel on her motorbike. My day in Kaohsiung was colorful, busy, and a much needed rest from the bike. Having a friend to spend time with really gave me something to look forward to. I hope I meet many more along my way!