Day 3: Changhua to Chiayi

On Spokes: a solo cycling journey through Taiwan

The ride today should be straightforward, short(er), and easy. Only downside is all the traffic lights. It literally has been stop and go all day, turning a 3-hour ride into a 5-hour ride. But there was only 600 feet (182 metres) gain, so it was at least easy.

Originally I had planned to cycle to Sun Moon Lake, but locals I have met have recommended more time at other places, and making the most of Sun Moon in a short time would require more time on the bike. My sit bones are sore and I want to spend my days off, off the bike, so I’ve decided to go straight to Chiayi, and from there Kaohsiung where I will stay a couple nights and have a much needed rest day.

Since my ride today is only 50 miles (80 km), which will likely be the shortest distance until the last day, I have time to check out a couple of landmarks in Changhua. Though Changhua is not the most popular city destination in Taiwan, there are some sights worth seeing. I walked from my hostel to the Baguashan Buddha Temple. It’s basically a temple shaped like a giant Buddha. You can go inside the Buddha and purchase candles to light for him. There is a winding staircase that takes you up several floors, each floor housing a set of sculptures that tell the history/backstory of Buddha. Behind the Buddha is another bigger temple. The grounds are sprawling and all part of the tri-mountain national scenic area. It was really nice to spend a slow morning walking the grounds. Afterwards I walked through town a short ways to the Confuscious Temple. It was very quiet, but a beautiful temple with rustic, intricate detail.

It’s time now to get back on the road. I headed back to the hostel, charged my phone, and packed up my bike. Much of the day’s ride was on city streets, and having to stop at nearly every stoplight got a little tedious. Although I have to say the more time I spend on roads out here the more impressed I am with the infrastructure and social acceptance of multi-modal transportation. I finally made it to the Xiluo Bridge - it was fun to ride through it - little things bring me so much joy. On that same token, as I was crossing the bridge I saw the cutest little children’s park and just had to stop at it. It was time for a break anyway.

Something I’ve noted about children’s structures in Taiwan: like everything they are very detailed and elaborate. The elementary schools are quite grandiose, many adorned with colors and some even made to look like castles. Their parks are designed similarly, imaginative and playful. It brought a little joy into my day strolling through at the whimsical Xiluo park. The paths lead you through several cutesy structures and even a little water play area with pretend pop bottles spraying the lil’ kiddos with water. My favorite piece was probably the house from the Disney film Up!

If you ever consider cycling around Taiwan, be assured that you will never go hungry. 7-Elevens are more plentiful in Taiwan than Starbucks are in the U.S. They are everywhere. Before you scrunch your face at the thought of relying on 7-Eleven to fuel you, know this: Taiwanese 7-Elevens are entirely different than the American versions. I haven’t stepped foot in a U.S. 7-Eleven in over 6 years, but if they offered the kind of options they do in Taiwan, I might go there for lunch every day. Maybe I’m not as picky when I’ve been cycling for 5 hours straight, but the snacks and meals at Taiwanese 7-Elevens are pretty damn tasty. My favorites are the boiled sweet potatoes and the variety of salads and sandwiches. The soybean floss sandwiches are delicious!

Though the ride today was a little tedious with all the stop and go, my spirits rejuvenated with every thumbs up from motorbike drivers, and I even got a salute from a road worker.

When I made it to Chiayi I checked in at a hip and contemporary hostel near the train station. I’ve stayed in a lot of hostels around the world, this is the first time I’ve stayed at a capsule one. It was kinda cool and the beds were super comfy. I met a Polish man who was also cycling around the island, we exchanged routes and stories before turning in for a needed sleep.

Tomorrow is going to be a good day because I will arrive in Kaohsiung, where I will take a couple nights off. It’s about time for a break!