Coast and Castles: One of the most beautiful cycle routes in the UK

The Coast and Castles route is often described as one of the most scenic cycle journeys in the UK. For me, cycling this route from Edinburgh to Newcastle-upon-Tyne felt like gliding through a moving storybook.

I had no preplanned intentions of cycling this route, only because I had never heard of it until I was searching Komoot for an idea of how I was going to cycle from Edinburgh to London. Immediately I was intrigued by the name of the route: Coast and Castles. The more I read about it, the more excited I grew to experience it.

I had cycled to Edinburgh from Girvan, a small harbor town In South Ayrshire. which is on the west coast of Scotland, just a ferry ride from northern Ireland (which is how I got there). I plan to write a post about Girvan since I spent a week there staying with a local Scot and it was such a charming time.

I stopped off in Glasgow on the way and slept on the couch of some students who also happened to be avid cyclists. They were very hip and open. I accompanied the only man in the apartment, Jake, to the Indian supermarket to pick up some veggies for dinner. They cooked a scrumptious vegetarian supper complete with tofu and plenty of leafy greens.

I spent two weeks in Edinburgh staying with a couple of ladies about an hour walk from the city. They lived in a small apartment right above a small supermarket. In exchange for a room to sleep I walked their two Collies every day and cleaned up their garden.

Edinburgh was pretty magical, but I credit that mostly to my friends who visited while I was there. When I was in Ireland still my friend had text me; OMG will you be anywhere near Scotland in like mid June?

Me: YES!!! I will, in fact, be in Scotland the entire month of June!

My friend: MARA WE ARE COMING TO SCOTLAND!!!!!!

There is nothing more uplifting than meeting up with your friends in another part of the world. My friends and I had so much fun romping around Edinburgh, visiting the cemetery where J.K. Rowling supposedly got the names for many of her Harry Potter characters (this is a theory), taking naps in the botanical gardens, and laughing our asses off while enjoying sweet, cold gelato.

After my friends left to go back home, I stayed another week in Edinburgh before getting back on the bike to make my way towards Hampshire, England for another workaway job. (See my post about my time cycling there.)

I was very excited about taking the Coast and Castles route all the way to London. Well, actually, the route ends in Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Well, actually, most cyclists start in Newcastle-upon-Tyne and end in Edinburgh, though some cycle further north to Aberdeen. 

I was going the opposite direction, of course, so I would begin my journey from Edinburgh. From that starting point I would cycle 322km, or 200 miles, to Newcastle-upon-Tyne.

The route is fairly simple, and it’s mostly flat, so perfect for a leisure trip. It took me 4 days to cycle, though looking back I wish I had factored in more time. Join me on a magical journey through the UK's beautiful coastal route!

Day 1: Edinburgh to Caddonfoot

My first day on route was exciting and lovely. I was surrounded by green, crossing over stone bridges and cycling along calm rivers. It was a peaceful ride, primarily taken on quiet backcountry roads. As I got closer to Galashiels, I kept seeing old racing cars zoom past. At first I didn’t think anything of it, but after about the 4th or 5th one, I realized there must be some sort of event or convention or something. Eventually I started to see small gatherings of people on the side of the road, waiting for the cars to speed past. I still don’t know what it was about, but it was cool to see the unique motor cars.

I cycled for maybe 72km (45 miles) before I pulled up a dirt path into a grassy clearing. I pushed my bike down to a small creek in the woods, and set up camp. 

Day 2: Caddonfoot to Berwick-upon-Tweed

There are few things that elicit wholeness like waking up with the sun surrounded by nature. All I could hear was the sound of trickling water, and a soft symphony of high chirps from the bugs and the birds in the trees.

After packing up camp, I rolled Dusty Carnation back out onto the road, and continued on. I cycled into Galashiels, and took a short climb up to visit the Torwoodlee Tower ruins. It’s an old tower that was abandoned in the 1700s and owned, along with 3,000 other acres, by the Pringle Family over several centuries. Recently the Tower has been stabilized and is being preserved. It's just a short hike down a forest-like path to get to the tower.

A few more km down the route I came upon some sort of famous house. I decided to stop and check it out. Turns out, it was Abbotsford in Melrose. For those who don’t know, Abbotsford was the home and estate of Sir Walter Scott, a Scotsman from the 18th century who became the first international best seller. Perhaps one of his most famous works was the poem, Ivanhoe. There is much more to Sir Walter Scott’s life, but I’ll let you gather that history on your own.

I took some time to meander around the estate, though I didn’t go in for a tour of the mansion. I did stroll around the gardens and peeked in at the cute little Witch Corner. It’s an interactive experience for children, inspired by Sir Walter Scott and his passion for the mystical, magical folklore of the Scottish borderlands.

After leaving Abbotsford, I cycled another 24km (15 miles). Crossing over a drawbridge, I received beautiful glimpses of River Tweed and the nature.

I eventually arrived at Floors Castle in Roxburghe. A long dirt-gravel path led to a large parking area in front of a stone wall. I ordered a cappuccino at the cafe to connect to the Wifi so I could message my host with a time of arrival.

It was too late in the afternoon to purchase a ticket for a tour of the castle, and the ticket was quite expensive so not sure I would have anyway. The outside of the castle is spectacular enough so I cycled around and admired its magnificent prominence.

Leaving the compound, I cycled down a grassy field which led me to a locked gate. Despite my best efforts, there was no way I was able to get my bike over or around the gate, so I cycled back from whence I came, and back out to the main road. 

I had one last castle to visit before arriving in Berwick-on-Tweed. Norham Castle was another ruins situated comfortably on a field of green grass. I wasn't able to get in through the front, as the entire area was fenced off. I cycled around to the other side of the ruins to explore. Well worth a visit.

Arriving in Berwick upon Tweed, I cycled to the home of my first host on this route, Colin. He was a sweet older man who lived in an adorable house just over the bridge. I arrived a little after 7pm.

I parked my bike in his garage and he helped me take my bags up to his daughter’s room. She is away at college, though traces of her were clearly still visible in her room, including some cute photographs.

He kept apologizing about the state of his house. I could see that the kitchen had been partially finished with new contemporary cabinets and countertops. He certainly didn’t need to apologize, I was grateful for a bed and I could see the vision he had for the improvements on his house, though it was already quite cute as it was. 

I took a hot shower before joining my host for dinner. We had homemade pizza, salad, and vegetables. It was heavenly. He also shared his homemade kombucha and explained to me how he makes it. He also shared with me a little about the city, including the uniqueness of the walls surrounding the town and the fact that the Royal Border Bridge arches were built using a technique called centring. I had never heard of it before, but apparently it's a method that temporarily holds the arches (a defining feature of the bridge) in place during construction. Once the supports were removed, the bridge became self-supporting. Queen Victoria opened the bridge in 1850 and was the first to cross it by train.

I was exhausted after a full day of exploring and cycling, but the conversation with Colin was so engaging that I didn’t turn in until midnight.

Day 3: Berwick-upon-Tweed to Alnwick

The next morning I joined Colin downstairs for a breakfast of bread, homemade jam, and fruit. He offered great suggestions on what to see in town, solidifying my decision to take my time this morning and explore the village before getting back on route.

He also suggested, if time was on my side, to visit Lindisfarne Castle on Holy Island. He informed me that because of the tide the island is only reachable in the middle of the day. Basically, I would need to get to the causeway early enough to make it to the island, explore, and get back before the tide came in. 

After thanking my host and packing my bike, I set off over the bridge to explore the village for an hour or two. One of the most fascinating details about the town is its Elizabethan walls that surround it. The walls are over a mile long and offer visitors an immersive way to experience this unique town. Colin had shared with me that the walls were built in the 1500s and are the best preserved bastioned walls in Europe. Building the walls was, apparently, quite an expensive undertaking, but deemed necessary to keep out the Scots who were consistently trying to claim the town.

There are so many alleyways and hidden walkways to explore throughout the town, I traversed a few. I cycled up to the pier and was greeted by a ‘no bicycles’ sign. I left Dusty against the wall while I walked down the pier to the Berwick lighthouse. It’s not open to the public, but it’s a cool historic structure to behold. My pier stroll was lovely under the warm sun and ocean breeze.

When I returned to where I left Dusty, I cycled to Berwick Castle and Ramparts. I locked up Dusty in a corridor next to the entrance, and opened a heavy metal gate to get onto the compound. There isn’t much left of the ruins, but it’s still worth visiting on a nice day. I followed grassy knolls that rolled over the ramparts, and decided I needed to change into shorts as the day was growing warm. I found a mound of tall grass and discreetly changed into my shorts.

I walked all the way around to a stone stairway, which took me through a corridor in the village and back out under an arch. I turned right to retrieve Dusty.

It was time to say goodbye to Berwick-upon-Tweed, and continue the adventure.

As I cycled forward, I was eventually led off pavement and onto grassy, dirt paths along the coast. I enjoyed passing by people walking their dogs. There was something so serene and calming about being out there. Every so often I would have to dismount my bike and open a wooden gate to continue forward, though there were a couple of times that a passersby would hold the gate open for me so that I could ride through uninterrupted. With a wave of my hand and a toothy smile I thanked the helpful strangers.

I am glad that Colin told me about Holy Island, as I absolutely would have missed it otherwise. I had taken a look at my map to get an understanding of where on the route I might pass it, and as I cycled over the grassy path hugging the coast, the mysterious island caught my eye.

With a rush of adrenaline, I cycled across the causeway. It was clear to me why it is impossible to access the island twice a day. The road was wet and water was pooled on either side. It was a solid 10km (6ish miles) to the village on Holy Island, which was as cute as a button. 

I made my way to Lindisfarne Castle, which sits atop a hill overlooking the island. It look like something out of a fantasy. The views from every angle are stunning. The state of the castle is highly impressive given that it was built in the 1500s. Inside all of the rooms are arranged and decorated to showcase their use and display historical artifacts. It felt like I was in a different world.

I cycled back into the village and became suddenly hungry. I wasn’t famished, but I could definitely use a little snack. I decided on some chips (fries) with vinegar. Ever since my Irish friends in Youghal introduced me to the proper way to eat chips, with vinegar, I can’t have them any other way. As I made my way out of the village, I decided to get one more snack. It was a hot day so I treated myself to a scoop of ice cream.

I felt like I had achieved something special as I cycled across the causeway one more time, and back to rejoin the route. If you can make the timing work, I highly recommend visiting Holy Island and taking a tour of the castle. It was definitely a highlight for me (thanks, Colin!).

The day was getting hotter, and there were a few nice hills to climb (though after now having traveled through the Balkans they were like baby hills). I alternated positions with a group of women cyclists a few times. They were on fun rides, not loaded. I ran into them again at a petrol station, where I chugged an iced mocha. We chatted for a moment, until one of the women spotted the bag of lettuce I had strapped to my bag.

“They always make fun of me for carrying greens on my rides!” She turned to her friends. “See! It’s not weird!”

My next stop was Bamburgh. I felt such a thrill as I coasted into the village with a full and spectacular view of Bamburgh Castle. I waved to the women cyclists - they had beat me there and were already sprawled in a patch of grass eating their lunch. 

Sadly, I did not go inside Bamburgh Castle. All I could think about was getting a cold drink. I stopped at a pub and ordered a large foaming beer, and sat down to drink only after slathering myself in sunblock.

I was supposed to stay with a host in Alnwick that night. The city was actually a little off route, but I had heard it was worth visiting. First, I wanted to stop at one more castle on the way.

Dunstanburgh Castle was extraordinary because of its location and the 2 km (1.3 mile) walk to get to it. Just past the town of Embleton, I cycled up a small hill and parked my bicycle outside the wooden gate that opens into a large green pasture along the coast. 

Cows and sheep roamed all over the fields, while the waves crashed against the rocks and up against the hillside. It was a stunning walk over the grass all the way to the 14th century ruins. Given that it was pretty late in the day, I was not able to enter the ruins past the fence. However, I’m still very happy I took the walk. It was magical.

I didn’t have any service so I had to cycle down the hill for about a kilometer before I could message my host to let him know an approximate time of arrival. The rest of the route had me cycling on paved roads sandwiched between brush and trees. It was hot, I was sweaty, and the damn midges were everywhere. They were sticking to the sweat on my arms and legs.

When I finally made it to Alnwick, I pulled out my phone to get the exact location of my host.

Host: I am making dinner for us. Do you have any special requests?

The message had been sent nearly an hour ago so I was sure my response wouldn’t really matter, but I text back.

Me: No, only just to let you know I’m a vegetarian.

Host: Oh darn! I already put meat on the pizza. I can make you some pasta.

It’s okay, you don’t have to go through any extra trouble.

I plugged in his GPS location and cycled into a little neighborhood lined with townhouses protected by little wooden gates. As I searched around trying to determine which house belonged to my host, a man pointed me in the right direction.

“He hosts cyclists all the time,” he said.

I parked my bike outside the house, and my host helped me carry my bags up to the room.

“I’m sorry about putting meat on the pizza,” he said. “I feel bad, all I have is pasta that I can make you.”

“Oh please don’t feel bad. You really didn’t have to go through any trouble.” It’s what I said, but I was secretly looking forward to the pasta. I was starving.

“No trouble at all.”

“I’m really sweaty and covered in midges,” I said. “I don’t know if you’ll want me at your dinner table. Would it be okay if I had a shower first?”

After my shower I joined my host in the kitchen as he was finishing the cooking. He introduced me to his dog, though the name escapes me today. He had an energetic Collie, and I excitedly told him I had a Collie too (shout out to my baby Beta, who is taking care of my daughter back home). 

Once dinner was ready, I helped set the table and we enjoyed salad, pasta (for him, pizza), and a glass of red. I was fascinated by his recumbent bike in the hallway. (A recumbent bicycle has three wheels and the rider sits down, leaned back, while pedaling in front.) He shared with me that he bought it to make cycle touring with his dog easier, but It wasn't.

Day 4: Alnwick to Newcastle-upon-Tyne

The next morning my host greeted me by saying,

“I’ve got good news and bad news.”

My heart missed a beat as I wondered what the news could possibly be. I knew it had something to do with Dusty Carnation. 

“Good news is, your bike is still there. Bad news is you have a flat.”

Okay, bad news is not so bad. I went outside to inspect, and then quickly got to work changing my flat. I was grateful that it happened over night while I was snug in bed, rather than in the middle of the day on route.

Once my flat was fixed, we shared breakfast, and said farewell.

Before getting back on route, I had to visit Alnwick Castle. Sadly, I could not go inside the castle. There were bike racks but security told me I would not be able to leave my bags on my bike, nor would I be able to take them in. I watched as a group of children dressed in Harry Potter robes lined up for their magical day.

Alnwick Castle has a long history, having been built in the 11th century and serving many purposes; a military outpost, teaching college, safe haven for refugees, and a home. Today, it’s famous for being a filming location for the Harry Potter movies. Some scenes that were filmed here include the scenes in which Harry Potter learns to fly on the broomstick, where Harry learns the rules of quidditch, and where Harry and Ron crash the flying car. The castle has been used for filming in many other movies and TV specials. Us ‘90s kids might remember Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves - yep, some scenes were filmed at Alnwick Castle.

There are many activities for visitors to engage in, including the popular broomstick training. The castle is massive and is rich with history - you could easily spend an entire day there. While writing this article I discovered the great Victorian kitchen, built in the mid-1800s for the Duke of Northumberland, was just opened to the public for the first time last year.

Slightly bummed I couldn’t go in, I cycled across the bridge, stopping at the spot my host had informed me was the best place to take In a view of the castle. Then I cycled back through town and under the arch before cycling to my next and last castle on the route.

For history buffs, Warkworth Castle is definitely worth a visit. Said to be one of the most formidable castles in northern England, Warkworth was once the home of the Percy Family, the same family that owns Alnwick. The entire compound sits within the ancient walls, and interpretive panels lead visitors through a historical journey of adventure, war, and majesty. There are plenty of stairwells, tunnels, and towers to explore throughout the medieval fortress, and you'll get expansive views of the River Coquet and the surrounding valley from the towers.

You do have to buy a ticket to get in, but they offer a 20% car-free discount. Visitors arriving by bus can show proof of their bus ticket for the discount, and in most cases you can get the discount if you arrive by bicycle. I spent a good two hours exploring the ruins, and it was worth every second.

Finally, I continued on the road for a few km before being routed back onto grassy paths, which were slightly soft due to some drizzle from earlier. About 50 km (31 miles) from Warkworth I came to St. Mary’s Island, where I took a break from the bike to visit St. Mary’s Lighthouse. The narrow causeway takes visitors to the rocky tidal island, though just like Holy Island it becomes submerged during high tide. Right now, the water was still and I watched happily as children and families were hopping along the rocks. 

A common problem I’ve run into on this trip is that I sometimes arrive too late to tour inside the historic landmarks. I was too late to go inside the lighthouse, so I admired it from the outside. It was built in 1898 and was operating until 1984. It’s a classically beautiful structure, and the views of the lighthouse on the island from the path are picturesque.

Another 4km and I was in the bustling city of Tynemouth. The beach road is shared by both cyclists and pedestrians. I cycled through some kind of festival with rides and street foods. From the path you can see Tynemouth Castle off in the distance. It’s a stronghold that sits on a cliff with wide cast sea views, a big fortified wall marking the entrance. Interestingly, I noticed an LGBTQ flag flying atop the castle. It was late June, which is LGBTQ+ Awareness Month. It’s always a nice reminder of acceptance and humanity when I see these displays of awareness.

Sadly, again, I could not go inside the castle for a tour as it was too late in the day. I guess I’ll take this moment to say that while this cycle route could easily be done in 2-3 days, I cycled it in 4 and still didn’t have enough time to visit all of the castles and historical sites on route. If I were to do this route again, I would probably allow myself a week to explore everything.

My final stop was in a small neighborhood in Newcastle-upon-Tyne. I stayed with a host, Mandala, in her cute little apartment. I arrived to the quaint wooden gate just as the rain was moving in. Mandala was preparing some goodies for a baby shower she was attending the following day. Realizing that, I thanked her for still being willing to host me despite her preparations. We enjoyed a cold beer while we prepared a pasta dinner together. After dinner, I showered and plugged in my devices before turning in. I slept in her comfy guest room, listening to the storm rolling.

The next morning Mandala offered me muesli for breakfast, which I gladly scarfed down. She shared stories of her own travels with me. I especially liked hearing about how she used to knock on doors when she was backpacking to ask for a place to sleep. In her experience, most people were friendly and open to sharing their home. 

The sky had cleared up overnight, and I was ready to start the next part of my journey to London. I bid my generous host farewell, and a happy baby shower for her friend.

I have been cycling for nearly a year now, and though it’s been eight months since I cycled Coast and Castles, it continues to be a fond memory for me and is one of my favorite routes. It’s the perfect multi-day cycle trip for beginners as well as advanced cycle tourers because while relatively easy, it offers a little mix in terrain through the grassy coastal paths and there is so much to see and experience. From historic landmarks to wild coastal landscapes, Coast and Castles delivers one of the most rewarding cycling adventures in the UK.

Women Belong Outside

I am raising money for The Cairn Project, a nonprofit that promotes equity in the outdoors and helps more women get outside. Visit my ambassador page at the link below:

Click Here