Day 2: Hsinchu to Changhua

On Spokes: a solo cycling journey through Taiwan

It is day 2 and I cannot wait to get back on the trails!

I woke up feeling ready to start the day. While certainly not at a 5-star hotel, as is evidenced by the gnats squashed on the walls of my hotel room, my stay was quite pleasant. But the best part was breakfast. They had a row of sandwiches and small boxes set out for guests on the front counter. The receptionist let me know which ones were vegetarian, and I took my goods up to my room. I made a cup of coffee and opened my box. To my great delight it contained dan bing! My new favorite breakfast food! The other items were an egg salad sandwich, which I saved for later, and a pb and j sandwich. I must declare the pbj sandwiches in Taiwan are very different than what we have in the U.S. They are much tastier - I won’t eat pbj at home but I could them eat every day in Taiwan, if that gives you an idea.

After fueling with breakfast I packed up my bike and set off. The majority of today’s ride was quiet and picturesque, winding me through beaches, forests, and parks along the west coast. I was granted serene views of the beaches for the first 15-20 miles (24-32 km). I was also pushing through an intense headwind, and was relieved when I finally made my way onto a cobbled path that traveled under a shaded awning of trees. At one point I came across a fallen tree inside the cove, so I had no choice but to lift my bike over it. Not the easiest task with it all loaded up. After that I found myself riding through shaded parklands, following gentle slopes and winding paths shared with pedestrian park visitors. It was beautiful and peaceful, and my favorite portion of the route was when I went through Holiday Forest. Apart from its magical-sounding name, it offers a treat for the eyes as I pass tiny temples, old but whimsical structures, and majestic banyan trees.

At about mile 60ish (97ish km) I rejoined the main route on road. By that point I was hungry and a little chilly, so I kept my eyes open for a coffee joint I could pop into. Just as I entered Tongxian Township I spotted a cafe called 85 C on the corner. I stopped for a latte and couldn’t resist what looked to be a delectable slice of strawberry cake. It was delectable indeed. Something I enjoy about eating baked goods in other countries outside the U.S. is that they aren’t nearly as sweet - they are still sweet, but the U.S. is known for overloading everything with sugar and salt. Once you eat sweets elsewhere, you realize there’s no need for all the additives, and it actually enhances the taste because you get such deep flavor from the other ingredients. In other words, it doesn’t taste like you’re eating pure sugar.

Throughout Taiwan you can see contemporary architecture inspired by both modern advancements in science and technology and traditional Chinese architecture.

For the next 17 miles (27 km) I rode through towns, with many stop lights! I finally made it to Changhua, where I checked in at a quiet hostel that had rooms themed after different countries. I, fittingly, was put in the Taiwan themed room. I ate my egg salad sandwich and my other wheel cake for dinner before turning in for the night. Tomorrow is all road. Should be simple…. or arduous.