Day 10.1: Jioufen and Houtong Cat Village

On Spokes: a solo cycling journey through Taiwan

Waking up to the sound of rain is sometimes lovely - serene, soothing, cozy. But today it felt offensive. It sounded as if the sky had broken and all of its rage was falling towards earth like daggers. I had to force myself downstairs where I met another traveler meditating on the couch in the shared space. We ended up having a great chat covering a variety of topics. She recommended I check out Houtong Cat Village. I knew that staying inside this tiny hostel all day would drive mad, so I decided I was going out in the rain. This time I took an umbrella. I took the bus to Ruifang station and from there took the train to Houtong. There the rain was actually coming down lightly, so it was actually a really pleasant stroll around the cat village.

A little history lesson: Houtong was once a thriving mining town. In the early 20th century its high coal production prompted a large number of workers to move into the town. The coal industry saw a sharp decline in the 1990's, which meant that people began to resettle in bigger cities. A few individuals and families remained in the town, along with several abandoned cats. The loyal locals began caring for the abandoned cats, and quickly the cat population in the town grew. In the early 2000's word began to spread of the cats in Houtong, and with that revival of the old mining town. Now it serves as a popular, cat-themed tourist destination, with its friendly and well-cared for cat population and cute, locally-run (by both humans and felines) cat cafes.

The gentle rain added a little mysticism to the mountainous town, and it was a beautiful place to spend the afternoon. I didn't think I'd see many cats today, but they were actually out and about, braving the rain. The train station was adorably decorated with cat figurines and signs. The walls and stairways were painted with cats, there were cat cut-outs lining the tunnel bridge that takes you to the village, and there were numerous shops stocked with cat-themed souvenirs and snacks.

I climbed a maze of stairs to discover rows of cat cafes. You've probably heard of them, or seen them on social media. I can't speak for all cat cafes, but the ones in Houtong are ethical and great homes for the cats. Everyone around me was respectful of the expectations; mainly to allow the cats to come to you, and not to feed them or follow them. The Hide & Seek Cafe serves up the cutest cat-themed treats, while the 217 Cafe is run by a lovely older couple. Both cafes are decorated with artwork drawn by visitors. The Meow Cha cafe offers a variety of teas in a setting that is perfect for cuddling cute kitties.

All in all, I was happy I ventured out in the rain to explore the Houtong Cat Village. It was a purr-fect day (sorry, couldn't help it). Tomorrow marks my last day on the bike as I head back to Taipei. A bittersweet realization... stay tuned for the send off.