This small Irish coastal town has a complicated history, and deserves a comeback

By Mara Noel White

I recently connected with a young Irish couple who told me they bought a house in Cork. They offered me a place to stay in exchange for helping them do a little painting. I promptly put Cork in on my map, not realizing they meant Cork the county, not Cork the city. The county is comprised of 13 towns, with Cork city being at the center. Being a bit clueless about the area, I assumed I would be meeting my new friends in the city, so I cycled into it after completing the Ring of Kerry (10 out of 10, though the sun gods gifted me with fantastic weather, so I don’t want to oversell). Having spent the last three weeks camping and cycling through rural towns and villages across Ireland, I was immediately overwhelmed with the amount of people scurrying about the city. It didn’t take me long to realize that Cork is a college town. It’s the third most populated town in Ireland, in fact. It was a bit too much hustle and bustle for me and my loaded bike.

I decided to find a camp spot about 40 minutes cycle away in Blarney, a much smaller town. It worked out because when D. (which is what we'll call him), my host, text me, he claimed he wasn’t far from Blarney and would retrieve me and my bike from there. I figured the house I was going to help paint must be close to Blarney, but the next morning D. asked if I could meet him in Ballincollig. It was a 40 minute cycle from my camp spot in Blarney, and as I cycled through I thought; what a lovely town to buy a home in. I met him at the Talbot Hotel, where a bridal party were getting their photos taken - one of those little things that brings me joy even though it has nothing to do with me. When D. pulled up, he informed me that the house is on the coast about an hour and a half away, in a little town called Youghal (the pronunciation sounded to me like ‘y,all.’)

The gardens at Blarney Castle

I spent a week in Youghal. It was a nice change of pace to have somewhat of a routine in a stationary way. I got up each morning, did a little painting, had a little breakfast, then went for a run through town, along the coast and down the boardwalk, to the local gym where I lifted weights or attended a class. In the afternoon, I would go to the library to use the computer or hop into a cafe for a coffee and some work. The town is small, there is not much to do and at the same time plenty to do, if that makes any sense. With a little sprucing up, Youghal would make the perfect weekend getaway.

When I first arrived in the little coastal town, my friends opened the door to their brand new old house. I was hit with a wave of panic - or it could have just been the musty smell permeating from the walls. My initial thoughts were: ‘what are they gonna have me do? It’s gonna take a lot more than paint to fix this place!’ I continued to think so despite their repeated exclamation, “it’s amazing what a bit of paint can do!” I resolved that it was really none of my business what condition the house was in. I was there to paint and that’s what I would do. The contractors they hired to sand and varnish the floors, however, were not shy about voicing their feelings about the house. Each morning I worked to the chorus of “it’s a shit house.” Fortunately, D. and his fiancé were spared this harsh judgment, as they had to return to the city for work following the weekend.

Over the weekend we painted together. The first night D.’s parents came to check out the house, his mother reassuring him that it is “a fine house.” D. and his father went out to retrieve heaping paper bags of authentic Irish chips from Doyle’s Chips. The chips were thick cut, soaked in tangy vinegar, and completely unhealthy. I ate the entire bag! The rest of the weekend I graciously accepted simple meals of eggs and wraps, and tried my first potato farl, which was delightful underneath a plate of baked beans. I was also treated to a homemade Irish dinner, with a variety of potatoes of course, when we visited D.’s parents. I was grateful to have my laundry done (thanks, D.’s mum!) and a hot shower to wash off all the paint. On the way back to town, D. stopped us at the supermarket to purchase enough food for the week. I would be left at the house to make good on my promise to paint.

Walking paths line the coast in Youghal for over 5 miles

My job this week was to prime all the wood doors and frames, and staircase spindles. Seemed easy enough (realization: priming takes longer than you’d think). The mutterings of the floor contractors, who both happened to be named Murphy, kept me in a spirit of humor as I listened to them grunt and groan over how much work and money needed to be put into this ‘shit house.’ Nothing irked them more, though, than knowing I had been tasked with painting this old house. They bemoaned that painting is a trade, and it takes years to learn to do it well. They had no beef with me, though. In fact, they took a liking to me and even treated me to breakfast one morning. I learned a lot that week about Ireland’s regulations on landlords, housing market, and property taxes, among other things.

According to one of the Murphy’s, Youghal used to be quite a lively town, with many vacationers coming in from the bigger cities. His belief is that it was the removal of the train in the 1960’s that ultimately led to Youghal falling off the map and losing its charm. This is an interesting perspective because it was the installation of the railway that boosted Youghal as a tourist destination in the late 1800’s. The town, once a prosperous port town serving as home to major factories, experienced an economic decline as a result of changing legislation and increased competition in trade markets. More recently, Youghal experienced tragedy when two swimmers died during the 2023 Ironman competition, the event having served as somewhat of a lifeline for the town in the last several years. The 2024 and 2025 events have been on hiatus since, and it’s uncertain whether it will return. You can see the remnants of old Ironman signs still lingering on the storefronts of local businesses, a grim reminder of that fateful day. 

Despite Youghal’s fluctuating and complicated history, it continues to move forward with hope. There’s a lot still to appreciate about this tiny seaside town. The town has a rich history, and there is ample opportunity to showcase its timeline. I noted the spots where educational plaques could be placed, mostly in high visibility areas next to significant monuments. The clock tower that greets you as you enter the city is a classic monument that sets the tone for an historic walk. The lighthouse is another iconic structure that could use a little sprucing up to revive it in a role as a tourist attraction.

There are some stunning photographs displayed at Mall Gate, a central hub that houses random businesses. Mall Gate’s design is curious with its hodgepodge of businesses. I can’t help but wonder what its original purpose was. As it stands now, it currently houses the town’s library, a hair salon, and a small European grocery store, along with a couple of other businesses. The restaurant that was housed there is long closed and has not been revived. Many of the business and apartment buildings along the main street are quaint and cute, true to the small town Irish charm I noticed on the west of the island. There are a few storefronts that are vacant, however. Some of them need a wash, fresh paint, and a little TLC to elevate their charm and match the vibrant colors of surrounding storefronts.

Many of the homes and buidings in Youghal don colorful doors and window decor

As a runner, I really appreciated the wide sidewalks and especially the boardwalk that runs aside the beach and down the coast. I saw many walkers, joggers, and dogs taking advantage of this great amenity. The beaches are truly beautiful, and in the mornings I spotted several locals taking swims in the ocean. There are several entry points and even stations where folks can hang their towels and clothes. The boardwalk offers several prime spots for watching sunrises and sunsets. Every day I ran through town and down the boardwalk, making a stop off at the local gym. The staff there were very kind and even allowed me a free week pass, which I took full advantage of. On my run back into town one evening I was soaked by a delicious ocean wave that crashed over the wall. It was at the tail end of May so the temps were a little chilly for my taste (I am from the desert, after all), but I decided to embrace the gift the ocean bestowed on me with a smile. 

The town’s tiny size makes it easy to navigate, yet there are plenty of restaurants and cafes to satiate one’s appetite. I definitely recommend popping into the George Harrington Bakery. Biscuits are one of those food items I just never eat, but theirs looked so fluffy and they were sitting right out on the counter staring at me, so I had to try one. It was as perfect as biscuits go - I even stopped in on my last morning in town to grab a couple more for my bike ride to Waterford. I would also recommend visiting Boardwalk Coffee on the Mall. It’s a cute little coffee shop right at the harbor, and they have a variety of baked goods. Only downside was this coffee shop didn’t have WiFi, so if that’s desired you could check out Cafe 108 or Main Street Cafe. 

Boardwalk Coffee on the Mall still displays an IronMan poster

There’s actually quite a diversity of restaurants, with offerings of traditional Irish fare, Indian, Asian, garden cafes, and pizza. Recommendation: Grab a hazelnut cannoli from Luigi’s Deli - so light and airy with a perfect dusting of cinnamon. Unlike most Irish towns I’ve come across, pubs are spaced and not quite as raucous or prominent. There are a few, however, and they have all the charm as the more frequented pubs across Ireland. 

Running through town also allowed me to discover beautiful open spaces, perfect for picnics and events. I took advantage of the wide open grassy area at the central pavilion to do a little EMOM workout. There also happens to be a greenway that runs from Youghal to Midleton that is popular for cycling. There are a couple of shops in town where you can rent a bicycle if you don’t have your own. There are even a few of what appear to be luxurious accommodation options, including the Raleigh Walter Hotel and The Old Imperial, that speak to the town’s previous reputation of being a prime vacation spot. Youghal's situation on the map could help elevate it's candidacy as a weekend getaway due to its close proximity to more frequented neighboring cities such as Cork and it’s closer neighbor, Dungarvan (which is also a beautiful town and worth a visit).

Wall art outside an art musuem in Youghal, Ireland

After spending a week in Youghal, I feel confident that the town still holds a lot of potential. It needs some reviving, sure, but there seems to be a strong sense of community and visitors can appreciate the wealth of amenities and beautiful coastal scenery. With some creativity and commitment, Youghal can experience a comeback.

As I pack my belongings back on my bike, I have two primary thoughts. The first is that I had a surprisingly great time during my week in Youghal. The second; I am not going to miss putting on damp clothes in this musty old house.