Spoke Lore

Cycling the EuroVelo 6 took me from the Loire Valley to the Swiss border, through generous hosts, camembert dinners, and quiet hilltop homes in Mulhouse. But it was in Rapperswil — the “town of roses” — where something shifted. With 16,000 roses in bloom, cobblestone streets, a medieval castle overlooking Lake Zürich, and the longest wooden bridge in Switzerland stretching across the water, I found a brief but radiant moment of light in an otherwise difficult chapter of my jo